La Palma is the wildest of the Canary Islands and the one that surprised us the most. After loving Tenerife, where we hiked, visited cute towns, and enjoyed the climate, we looked for other islands offering the same, and La Palma ended up being one of our favorite Canary Islands so far. This guide covers what to do, where to stay, and what we’d skip, based on a full road trip across both sides of the island.

Things to do in La Palma

La Palma is perfect if you love being active, as it is not really a resort-style island. It is a green, dramatic, less-touristy Canary Island with black-sand beaches and lots of things to do. When driving around the island, you’ll also notice the endless banana plantations!

Fun fact: La Palma only has 85,000 people, but over 6 million banana plants.

A person floats in a clear turquoise pool on La Palma, surrounded by rocky cliffs and dark volcanic terrain—a hidden gem of the Canary Islands featured in any top travel guide.

A woman in a pink dress and headscarf strolls along a sunlit street in La Palma, with colorful yellow and blue buildings, trees, and street lamps—perfect for any Canary Islands travel guide.

Coastal hillside landscape with terraced banana plantations, scattered houses, and mountains in the background near the sea—an iconic scene from La Palma in the Canary Islands.

Santa Cruz de La Palma

Santa Cruz is the prettiest old town we found on La Palma with colorful wooden balconies, steep little streets, small enough that two hours is all you need.

Town square in La Palma with a statue on a pedestal, surrounded by palm trees and historic balcony-lined buildings under a partly cloudy sky—a charming Canary Islands scene perfect for any travel guide.

Start at Plaza de España, a stunning town square with beautiful architecture all around. Have a coffee at the stunning Don Manuel Cafe as well. After that, walk up Calle Anselmo Pérez de Brito, one of the prettiest streets on the island. Follow it north to the Artesanía Chandy souvenir shop on the corner, which is a very picturesque spot.

A red building with blue balconies and doors sits at a street corner; cafe tables with an umbrella and plants are in the foreground, echoing the vibrant charm of La Palma in the Canary Islands—perfect for your next travel guide inspiration.

Spacious indoor courtyard with wooden balconies, green ceiling art, hanging ferns, and people seated at tables in a café setting—ideal for a La Palma travel guide to the hidden gems of the Canary Islands.

A narrow cobblestone street lined with colorful buildings in La Palma, Canary Islands, welcomes pedestrians strolling along the sidewalks, leading to a bright yellow building at the street’s end under a clear sky—a scene fit for any travel guide.

Go right, and you’ll come out at Balcones de la Avenida Marítima, where you’ll find the iconic flower-covered wooden balconies near the ocean.

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Tip: For dinner, we ate at Mestizo Restaurante: homemade tacos, a really good ceviche, fresh fish, nice terrace!

A woman stands in front of a red building in La Palma, its two wooden balconies adorned with colorful flowers and plants—a charming scene from this Canary Islands travel guide.

A green wooden balcony with a half-closed window, decorated with a variety of colorful flowers, attached to a white building—typical charm found in La Palma, Canary Islands.

A man sits on a bench by a paved walkway next to a black sand beach in La Palma, Canary Islands, with mountains and buildings in the background under a hazy sky—a perfect scene from any travel guide.

We stayed about a 10-minute walk outside the center at Casa Antonita, which was comfortable, a bit uphill, but still easy to walk to. This area is actually as beautiful and well worth the visit! We saved all of our favorite spots in our La Palma map for you.

Narrow cobblestone alley lined with colorful houses and blue doors, with greenery on one side and a stone wall in the foreground—perfect for any La Palma travel guide to the Canary Islands.

A woman in jeans and a white shirt walks on a narrow street lined with palm trees and colorful buildings in La Palma, Canary Islands, with a church visible on the left—a perfect scene for any Travel Guide.

Mirador Espigón Atravesado hike

Our favorite hike on this side was Mirador Espigón Atravesado. A moderate walk of around 3 hours (there and back) through laurel forest, mostly shaded, with a few small waterfalls and ending at a small viewpoint perched in a valley with higher mountains on every side. There’s a short staircase to the viewpoint that looks dramatic in photos and even better in person.

A person with a red backpack walks down a rocky trail with wooden railings on La Palma, surrounded by dense green forest and tall mountains—an unforgettable scene from any stellar Canary Islands travel guide.

The trail starts from the same parking as Cascada de los Tilos, the island’s most famous waterfalls. It was closed when we visited because of landslides, so check this list before you go. If it’s open, the waterfall is just a short walk from the parking to a viewing platform and is easy to combine with the hike.

Good to know: Parking opens at 9 AM, so don’t plan to start earlier. Bring proper hiking shoes as it gets muddy, and the side paths are slippery on loose gravel.

A waterfall cascades over moss-covered rocks beneath a small bridge, surrounded by tall, green trees with sunlight streaming through the foliage—a hidden gem in La Palma, Canary Islands.

Piscinas de la Fajana (natural pools)

After the hike, drive 20 min to have a dip in the Piscinas de la Fajana. These natural pools are right by the sea, with volcanic rock walls keeping the water calmer. On a sunny, low-wind day, it’s one of the best swims on this side of the island.

Planning to stay in La Palma? Here’s an overview of all the hotels.

People swim and relax in a natural ocean pool beside rocky cliffs on La Palma, with waves crashing and the sea stretching toward a misty Canary Islands horizon.

Tip: If you’re with young kids, El Charco Azul has shallower, more sheltered pools.

Coastal walk to San Andrés

From El Charco Azul, you can take an easy 30-minute coastal walk to San Andrés, a small, colorful town and easily the most stunning one on the island.

People swim and relax in a natural rock pool by the ocean on La Palma, with some climbing and jumping from the rocks; calm, clear water and a blue sky create a perfect scene from a Canary Islands travel guide.

A woman in a white dress strolls down a stone path in a lush, sunlit botanical garden on La Palma, surrounded by cacti and green plants—a scene perfect for any Canary Islands travel guide.

We had a drink on the cute Plaza de San Andrés, the town square decorated with a fountain, palms, one of the oldest churches of the Canary Islands, and a couple of bars and cafes.

A yellow building with red trim features three windows, blue accents, and a red staircase surrounded by green cactus plants in front—a vibrant scene straight from a La Palma travel guide in the Canary Islands.

A woman in a white dress walks up outdoor steps surrounded by colorful buildings, palm trees, and a street lamp on a sunny day in La Palma, Canary Islands—a perfect scene for any travel guide.

A man walks with a child near a circular fountain surrounded by palm trees and colonial-style buildings on a sunny day in La Palma, Canary Islands—a perfect snapshot for any travel guide.

Visit the best Beaches in La Palma

Playa de Nogales (sunrise)

The most scenic beach on La Palma, and the only place we’d genuinely tell you to set an alarm for. About 20 minutes from Santa Cruz, it’s a deep black-sand beach surrounded by towering cliff walls. It is a famous beach with surfers, who are also the legends that make sure it stays clean.

A woman in a white dress stands on a black sand beach near tall cliffs at sunset in La Palma, Canary Islands, her footprints trailing behind—an inspiring scene for any travel guide.

Tip: Go for sunrise. For us in April, that meant 7:45 AM, and we had it completely to ourselves. The sun beams directly onto the beach at this hour. Later in the day, the cliffs throw a big shadow over most of it.

A woman sits on a towel on a black sand beach in La Palma near the ocean, with green cliffs in the background under a clear sky—a perfect moment from any Canary Islands travel guide.

A person walks up a dirt path with wooden steps in a rocky, cliffside area with green vegetation and large boulders on La Palma, one of the scenic Canary Islands.

The access is stunning in itself, a long staircase snaking around the cliffside, about 15 minutes down from the parking. With small kids, it’s best to leave the stroller in the car. Bring a towel and a picnic breakfast, and just sit, enjoy, or even go for a swim!

A man and woman walk down stone steps beside a rocky coastline, ocean waves, and steep cliffs in the background—an iconic scene from La Palma, one of the stunning Canary Islands featured in our Travel Guide.

Playa La Zamora

Playa La Zamora (southern coast) is a beach where a rock formation splits the bay into two distinct beaches. You can park at the restaurant up top, then walk down following the stairs.

Tucked away on La Palma in the Canary Islands, this small black sand beach is surrounded by high rocky cliffs and waves, with a few people sunbathing and a wooden walkway leading down to the shore—a hidden gem for any travel guide.

If you’d rather skip the beach and just swim, there’s a separate access point at the end of the parking lot with a ladder into the sea.

See La Palma’s highlights in one day with this tour.

Rocky coastline with metal stairs leading into the ocean on La Palma, waves crashing against the rocks, and green hills in the background under a partly cloudy sky—an iconic scene from any Canary Islands travel guide.

Pozas Naturales de Achentive

Walk down to Playa de Achentive and instead of heading for the sea, follow the rock wall to the right side, that’s where you’ll find the Pozas Naturales. A natural pool tucked behind volcanic rock, with insanely blue water when the sun hits it. Much warmer than the sea because the sun beams on it all day.

A person stands on rocky terrain beside a clear, turquoise stream surrounded by jagged, dark cliffs—a hidden gem in La Palma, one of the Canary Islands.

This place was empty when we went because most people don’t seem to know about this corner of the beach.

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Note: The pool fills with the tide. Water comes through the rocks and rises quite fast at high tide – it almost took our camera bags, haha. So, put your stuff up high or hang it on the rocks behind you.

Two people stand in clear turquoise water near rocky cliffs and a small cave under a partly cloudy sky, capturing the natural beauty of La Palma in the Canary Islands—a perfect scene for any travel guide.

Los Llanos de Aridane

Los Llanos is the bigger, sunnier town on the west side, and where we based ourselves for the second half of our La Palma trip. The old center is small, walkable, full of colonial buildings (that reminded us of Bogota in Colombia). And to our surprise, it has some great street art. Big, properly done pieces, mixed with the colonial architecture.

Two colorful murals on a building wall in La Palma: one shows an airplane over a globe, the other depicts a large ship on water. A white building with a red window and a yellow B is in the foreground—perfect for any Canary Islands travel guide.

A woman in a pink dress stands on a sunlit street lined with yellow and orange buildings in La Palma, Canary Islands, with a large colorful mural visible above the rooftops—a perfect scene for any travel guide.

People sit at tables under umbrellas in a shaded outdoor café on La Palma, surrounded by greenery and blooming flowers, with a white building and palm trees in the background—a perfect scene from any Canary Islands travel guide.

Shopping is also good in Los Llanos. Hannah’s favorite shops were:

Mi Bolso Dorado – cute clothing pieces, fair prices
Nueva Vida – colorful sustainable clothing, but pricey
Atelier El Tesoro – jewelry

Pedestrian street in La Palma, Canary Islands, lined with colorful buildings, outdoor seating, mannequins in dresses, and trees; a few people stroll the pathway under a partly cloudy sky—a scene fit for any travel guide.

We stayed at Lauser Suites, one minute outside the old center. It didn’t have many reviews when we booked, but it turned out modern, spotless, and good value.

There’s also a beach with a promenade just a short drive away, named Playa de Tazacorte. This is a good spot to spend an afternoon on the terrace or beach and enjoy the sunset.

Outdoor restaurant patio with empty white tables and chairs, palm trees, and a yellow building near the ocean under a partly cloudy sky—an inviting La Palma scene from a Canary Islands travel guide.

A layered coffee with a lemon slice sits on a saucer with a spoon on a sunlit outdoor table in La Palma, next to sunglasses, with the ocean and a stone wall in the background—a perfect scene for any Canary Islands travel guide.

People relax on blue lounge chairs on a black sand beach in La Palma, bordered by a stone wall, with cliffs and colorful buildings in the background under a partly cloudy sky—a perfect scene from the Canary Islands Travel Guide.

Where we ate in Los Llanos

La Papaya – coffee and brunch in a cute garden
Geco Libero – pizza
Elvis Bar – delicious toasts!
Empanadas Malvon – fresh empanadas
Cafetería Guarýn – coffee and brunch
Bonita Gastro – cozy dinner spot
San Petronio – in the next town, but worth the drive

A plate of sliced cheese, tomatoes, avocado, and greens on toast sits on a white table outdoors in La Palma, with a jar of brown sugar and a vase of pink flowers beside it—perfect for a Canary Islands travel guide.

A cup of coffee on a saucer sits atop a tiled table with floral patterns and a wooden border, evoking the charming cafes found in La Palma, Canary Islands.

A paved outdoor seating area with yellow-tiled benches, flowering shrubs, and a view of mountains and palm trees under a partly cloudy sky, perfect for any Canary Islands travel guide or inspiration from beautiful La Palma. — Restaurante San Petronio

The volcanic eruption

The Tajogaite volcano erupted in 2021, close to Los Llanos, and you can still see its impact. A massive slope of black volcanic sand runs from the new crater down to the ocean (you can actually take a tour along the crater).

A volcanic landscape with reddish-brown slopes and sparse vegetation, white houses and palm trees in the foreground, and green hills in the background—an iconic scene from La Palma in the Canary Islands for any travel guide.

It was the first time we’d seen something like it, and what surprised us was how high/thick the layer is, literally meters high! A new road has been built straight through it, and when you drive across, you can spot the roofs of houses buried underneath.

Aerial view of a straight road cutting through a barren, dark landscape on La Palma, Canary Islands, with small green trees lining both sides and a single car driving along it—perfect inspiration for your next travel guide.

The best place to learn more is Centro de Interpretación Cañones de Fuego, with a nice boardwalk built on the new lava field and a tour through to the tunnels. Or the Centro de Visitantes Volcán San Antonio, further south, covers the older volcano on that side.

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Aerial view of a large volcanic crater with sparse vegetation on La Palma, Canary Islands, surrounded by hills, houses, and a distant coastline under a partly cloudy sky—perfect for any travel guide.

A zigzag wooden walkway crosses a barren, volcanic ash landscape on La Palma, with small houses and green vegetation in the background—an iconic sight in this Canary Islands travel guide.

Porís de Candelaria

One of the most stunning places we visited on La Palma. Porís de Candelaria is a tiny old fishing village built directly into a sea cave, with houses tucked under the cliff and lit up gold at sunset.

A woman walks along a rocky cliffside path above blue ocean water on La Palma, heading toward small white structures built into the cave-like rock formation in the Canary Islands.

From around 2 PM (in April), the sun drops into the cave, the houses light up, and the whole thing feels surreal.

Small white houses built into a large rocky cave overlook blue ocean water on La Palma in the Canary Islands, with stairs leading down to the shore—a hidden gem for any travel guide.

Two people stand inside a large rocky cave on La Palma, holding hands and looking out towards the sea, with sunlight illuminating the cave walls and small buildings nearby—a perfect moment in the Canary Islands for any travel guide.

The road in is no joke… Narrow, extremely steep, and we couldn’t imagine passing another car coming up. We’re experienced drivers, have traveled a lot(!), and it still made us nervous. We arrived at sunset, when nobody was driving up, which was our luck. If you’re not comfortable on tight mountain roads, take a taxi or book a tour.

Please note that the houses are private, so respect the no-entry signs.

A winding road zigzags down a steep, grassy hillside toward the ocean on La Palma, with sunlight reflecting off the water—a scene straight from a Canary Islands travel guide.

Puerto de Puntagorda

If that road to Porís de Candelaria is a no for you, drive northwest to Puerto de Puntagorda. Another tiny village built along steep cliffs at the water, with the same dramatic setting but a much more manageable road towards it.

A woman stands on stone steps overlooking the ocean on La Palma in the Canary Islands, near a wooden signpost and rustic houses built into a steep, rocky cliff—a perfect scene for any travel guide.

Take your swimwear because there’s an epic ocean pool you can swim in when the sea is calm. There’s a flag at the entrance that tells you whether it’s safe. Unfortunately, the sea was too wild when we were there, but on a quiet summer day, this would be one of the best swims on the island!

A stone path lined with colorful flowering plants leads down to a wooden railing beside a building overlooking the ocean on a sunny day in La Palma, one of the stunning Canary Islands—a perfect scene for any travel guide.

A natural ocean pool formed by rocks on the edge of the sea in La Palma, Canary Islands, with clear water and waves in the background under a blue sky—perfect for your next travel guide.

A person walks along a rocky coastal path in La Palma, Canary Islands, with waves crashing below and cliffs rising under a partly cloudy sky—a perfect scene from a travel guide.

Mirador de la Cumbrecita

A 30-minute drive from Los Llanos into the middle of the island brings you to one of La Palma’s most popular viewpoints, on the rim of a massive volcanic crater surrounded by orange rock and forest.

Reservations are required for parking between 9 AM and 4 PM because it is small at the top. Outside those hours, no booking is needed.

A woman sits alone on a bench overlooking a lush, green pine forest and a rocky mountain peak partially covered by clouds—an idyllic scene from La Palma in the Canary Islands, perfect for any Travel Guide.

We went around 6:30 PM. It was cloudy, but even then, the views were worth the drive. From the parking, walk to Mirador de los Roques (10–15 minutes down) and on to Mirador Lomo de las Chozas. Doable with kids if you’re okay with a short uphill on the way back.

A person with a red backpack stands at a wooden railing, overlooking the lush valleys and distant mountains of La Palma in the Canary Islands under a cloudy sky—an inspiring scene from any travel guide.

Ruta de los Volcanes

This is the hike you want to do on La Palma. The full Ruta de los Volcanes runs about 22 km from Refugio del Pilar to Los Canarios, along the length of the island, with serious elevation and a string of volcanic craters the whole way. This route is not a loop, but you can arrange a taxi to pick you up at the end, and that’s how most people do it.

A person rides a horse along a narrow dirt trail on a dark, rocky hillside in La Palma, Canary Islands, with pine trees and clouds drifting in the background—a scene straight from a travel guide.

Ruta de los Volcanes return trail

We didn’t do the full route; we planned on a loop that we found on AllTrails. But the clouds came in halfway, and after continuing too long in the clouds and rain, we decided to turn around. There are several shorter alternatives starting from the same Refugio del Pilar trailhead, which you can find on AllTrails.

A man with a red backpack stands on a rocky ledge overlooking La Palma’s forested landscape, clouds drifting beneath a bright blue sky—a perfect scene for any Canary Islands travel guide.

Snow-capped mountain peak rising above a layer of clouds under a clear blue sky—discover this breathtaking view on La Palma, the hidden gem of the Canary Islands.

A few honest thoughts after our experience:

You’re walking on loose volcanic gravel, and sections are steep. We never normally hike with poles, but this is the one where we wished we had.
No shade above the cloud line and no water refills anywhere. Bring more sunscreen, water, and food than you think you need.
Layers. The wind and fog/rain up there change everything.
There’s not always phone service, so download your map in advance.

A person sits on a rocky, shrub-covered hillside in La Palma, overlooking a forested area with clouds drifting over the landscape—an idyllic scene from any Canary Islands travel guide.

Mirador Astronómico del Llano del Jable

After your hike, stop close to Llano del Jable, an astronomical viewpoint at 1,341 meters. Sunsets from this road up give some of the best views on the island, and the viewpoint itself faces directly west over a valley and the new volcano. Black lava, green Canary pines, and the Atlantic — all from one spot. It’s also one of La Palma’s official stargazing points, with information panels for the constellations.

Two people stand on rocks overlooking a foggy valley in La Palma, Canary Islands, with mountains in the background during sunrise, wearing casual clothes and facing the view—an inspiring moment from a Travel Guide.

Stargazing at Roque de los Muchachos

La Palma has some of the clearest skies in the world; the island even limits streetlights to amber color to protect the observatories on top. The best place to stargaze is Roque de los Muchachos, the highest point on the island, in the north.

Several observatory domes sit atop a green, rocky mountain ridge under a clear sky on La Palma, one of the Canary Islands, with clouds visible in the distance—a perfect scene for any travel guide.

We didn’t do a stargazing tour ourselves, as we’d already had a similar experience on Tenerife, but everyone we spoke to who did rated it one of the highlights of their trip. A guided session gets you a telescope, someone who knows the constellations, and access at the right time.

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A white observatory dome sits on a mountaintop above a blanket of clouds at sunset on La Palma in the Canary Islands, with vegetation in the foreground and a person visible inside the dome.

Salinas de Fuencaliente

At the southern tip of La Palma, next to the lighthouse, you’ll find the Salinas de Fuencaliente: a working salt farm where they are hand-harvesting sea salt. The shallow pools turn pink due to a tiny microorganism. Walk around the pans and have a drink at their restaurant with ocean views.

Workers harvest salt from rectangular salt pans near the coast of La Palma, with a lighthouse and buildings on a rocky hill in the background—a striking scene in the Canary Islands worthy of any travel guide.

Where to stay in La Palma

La Palma is small enough to do in 5 to 7 days. We split our days in La Palma between Santa Cruz de La Palma (3 nights) on the east side and Los Llanos de Aridane (3 nights) on the west side. You can do it from a single base, but two bases cut a lot of driving. The east side is the greener, lusher half of La Palma.

Our favorite hotels in La Palma 😴

Vivienda Vacacional Avioli (West)

La Palma

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A row of colorful, old-style houses with wooden doors and windows lines a sunny, paved street with potted trees—an inviting scene straight from a La Palma travel guide in the Canary Islands.

Getting to La Palma

La Palma’s airport (SPC) is about 8 km south of Santa Cruz – it is a small and convenient airport. Direct flights run from Spain, the Netherlands, Germany, the UK, and Scandinavia. If there’s no direct flight from where you are, fly to Tenerife or Gran Canaria and connect with Binter or Canaryfly.

Find flights to La Palma ✈️

You can also take a ferr y from Los Cristianos in southern Tenerife (2.5–3 hours). Which is great if you’ve already got a rental car on Tenerife and want to bring it across.

A small passenger plane is parked on an airport tarmac in La Palma, with ground crew and equipment nearby; green hills and houses are visible in the background under a partly cloudy Canary Islands sky.

Renting a car

Visiting the best things to do in La Palma is only realistic by renting a car. Driving on La Palma is pretty easy but it’s good to know that the drives take longer than Google Maps suggests.

We recommend to rent a car in Spain through Sunny Cars with free cancellation and insurance included. Book your rental car here.

A person stands next to a white SUV parked on a mountain road at sunrise in La Palma, overlooking a valley filled with clouds and surrounded by forested hills in the Canary Islands.

How much does La Palma cost?

Prices in La Palma were very good, especially for food. We had amazing local dishes at great prices; we never paid more than 35 EUR for a starter, two mains, and two drinks.

Costs of Traveling in La Palma

Travel on a budget in La Palma, from $370 − $420 USD weekly per person, mid-range $790 − $1530 USD, and high-end from $1470 − $2020 USD. However, costs depend on factors like accommodation, transportation, and activities. We did not include flights. Check flight prices here

Best time to visit La Palma

April to June and September to November are the best months. It is warm, and far less busy than summer. We went in April, and the weather was on our side most days, with some clouds rolling in over the mountains in the afternoons. The east side has a bit more clouds in general.

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Mixed

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14°C

Jan

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15°C

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15°C

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16°C

Apr

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18°C

May

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20°C

Jun

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23°C

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23°C

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22°C

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Natural volcanic rock pools with clear turquoise water, surrounded by rocky cliffs and people swimming, near the ocean under a clear sky—La Palma’s hidden gem in the Canary Islands, perfect for your next travel guide adventure.

July and August are the warmest and busiest, especially for the southern beaches. December to March is fine for hiking and town days, but the sea is cold, and Ruta de los Volcanes gets risky in winter.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is La Palma worth visiting?

Yes, 100%, if you love being active, as it is not really a resort-style island.

Why is La Palma famous?

La Palma is known as “La Isla Bonita” and is famous for hiking, stargazing (it’s a designated Starlight Reserve), and the 2021 Cumbre Vieja volcanic eruption, which is the longest in the island’s recorded history.

How many days do you need on La Palma?

We recommend 5 to 7 days on La Palma. Five gets you the highlights; seven lets you slow down and split your stay between the east and west sides of the island.

Is La Palma good for beaches?

It’s not a classic beach destination, most beaches are black sand and the sea is cold most of the year. But there are a lot of beaches! Playa de Nogales is one of the most scenic beaches we’ve seen anywhere, and the natural pools (Fajana, Charco Azul, Achentive) are some of the best swims on the island.